EBC-Island Peak Climbing

Departure from Kathmandu by domestic flight is early in the morning. The flight is interesting as you pass over fields, hills, and mountains.  Lukla Airport is called the Tenzing Hillary Airport after the first two men to summit Everest in 1953. Flying into this high-altitude airport is exhilarating.

Once you land and the gear is unloaded, you head off for a 3 to 4-hour trek to Phakding, where the first overnight stop is. You should be Phakding by lunchtime, but because of the altitude – Phakding sits at 2,651m/ 8,697ft – and the very early morning start, we do not push on today.

There is plenty to see today as you walk through pine forests and cross rivers. If you haven’t walked across a suspension bridge, there is plenty to experience today.
The trail enters Sagarmatha National Park by hiking through forests, yak pastures, and Sherpa villages. Looking up, we can see Mt. Thamserku above us. And on to Namche Bazaar.

It is necessary for everyone to take an acclimatization day before pushing on and up.  But acclimatization doesn’t mean lazing around; the best way to acclimatize is to be active.  On this day, you can visit the village of Khumjung, where Hillary set up a school for Sherpa children.  There is also a health post he was involved in setting up.

Leaving Namche with its busy restaurants, shops, and expedition groups, we feel we are entering another country.  Here there are signs of Buddhist worship everywhere. As we near Tengboche Monastery along a dust switchback trail, there are shrines, mani walls (prayers carved into stones), and prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

From the monastery itself, the views are stupendous – a whole panorama of mountains.  Everest, Ama Dablam, and Lhotse are on display.  When you have soaked up enough of the mountain vista, you may wish to light some butter lamps and meet some monks if the time is right.

Time-wise, this looks like a short day, but the trail is challenging, so be prepared.  Follow the Imja Khola (river) and over desolate fields to Dingboche, the highest Sherpa settlement.  We arrive by lunchtime, so there is plenty of time to relax and stare at the mountains, particularly Ama Dablam.

Again, we take a day to acclimatize to the increasing altitude. As mentioned, it is best to be active these days, so we recommend visiting Nangkar Tshang Peak, where there are great views of Makalu. This hike will take 3.5 to 5 hours, there and back.

A challenging trail awaits you today, but it starts off gently through alpine scrub and yak pastures.  The Thukla Pass, which you must cross, is 4,830m with stunning views.  There are many mountains over 7,000m to see, plus Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Nuptse, to name just three more.Having conquered this pass, there is the Thukla Pass to cross.  At this Pass, there is a memorial to those who have died on Everest. However, a very simple settlement, Overnight at Lobuche, has a wonderful setting.

Today we head to the last settlement before Everest Base Camp, where we will stay overnight.  After lunch, we leave Gorakshep and hike to Kala Pattar.  This is the nearest we can get to Mt Everest without climbing it. At 5,545m  with stunning views, it is no wonder Kala Pattar is often called Everest View Point.  After taking in the fabulous scenery and clicking dozens of photos, we return to Gorakshep for the night.

Today we retrace our steps to Lobuche, where we stop again for the night. And again, take in the wonderful views from this simple settlement.

Today there is another day for acclimatization to the high altitude. Sitting above Chhunkung village is Chhukung Ri peak. By climbing this peak, our bodies become acclimatized. Some scrambling is required near the peak’s summit, but the views are amazing, and we can see Ama Dablam and Amphu Labsa peaks. Climbing back down, we retrace our steps to Chhukung, where we spend the night.

Following the glacial moraine from Chukung, then hiking down to the runoff from Imja Lake, the trails go between some hills before coming out on a sandy plain right at Island Peak and Lhotse.  From here, walk to Island Peak Base Camp which views the Imja Valley. The afternoon is spent preparing for the climb

We will summit Island Peak today with the correct weather conditions (6,189m/ 20,305ft).  It’s an early start – 2 am and a long hard climb. There is a rocky scree and steep rocks to scramble over.  When we reach around 5,700m, experience has told us that the high altitude slows the progress considerably.

Finally, we reach a narrow ridge, the start of the glacier, put on crampons and harnesses, and get ice axes and ropes ready to climb across the glacier.  There may be ladders to cross and steep climbing sections to go up and down.

This point can take around 1 to 2 hours before we reach the base of the Headwall.   At the Headwall, it’s possible to take a break while the team fixes climbing ropes.  Finally, climbing up the Headwall, you will reach the summit of Island Peak.  Views are astounding – this is what you have been working towards.

Following the same route through the valley of Khumbu Khola, today is a much easier day on the body as the altitude gets lower.

We pass Orsho and Shomare villages – both Sherpa settlements.  Depending on the group’s interest, we can visit the gompa in upper Panchoche or take a different trail to reach Pangboche.

Pangboche is a lovely village surrounded by mountains: Everest in the north, Ama Dablam, Kangtaiga, and Thamserku in the east, and to the south, the Kongde range.  We can also see the Imja Tse River flowing through a fertile valley.

Following the trail from Pangboche, we retrace our earlier steps to the Imja Tse River and through a forest to reach Tengboche.  Here we can visit Tengboche Monastery, where we have lunch.

The landscape is full of rhododendron and juniper trees as we head on, crossing the Dudh Koshi River, following the Dudh Koshi gorge, and into pine forests. Here it is possible to see wildlife – and if we are lucky, we might see the Snow Leopard.  Finally, we pass the army camp on arrival in Namche Bazaar.  Here we relax and enjoy good conversation over dinner – reliving the adventure.

Today we retrace our original steps – was it really only two weeks ago?  We trek down to Lukla and our final night in the Everest Region.

An early morning flight gets us back into Kathmandu by lunchtime, giving us plenty of time to do any last-minute shopping before having a celebratory dinner.